Eating LA

Pescado Zarandeado ($20) was a state-of-the-art kilo of butterflied snook marinated in soy sauce and topped with flavored mayo. What’s snook, you ask? We’d never heard of it either, but apparently the long silver sport fish comes from tropical waters. The snook was just terrific, and only $20 for the minimum weight requirement! Amazing. We plucked moist, flaky chunks of white fish until the bones were bare. The snook was strewn with cucumbers and orange slices and plattered with a dish of stewed onions. If you want a terrific taco, just pile chunks of snook and sweet onions in a steaming corn tortilla. Mariscos Chente features 15 different shrimp preparations, including Aguachiles – marinated with lemon and green sauce; Borrachos – cooked with tequila, cut garlic, cilantro and crushed pepper; and Al Ajillo – prepared with cut garlic, cheese and sour cream. Cheese and sour cream on shrimp? No thanks. Camarones a la Diabla ($12) featured plump shrimp tossed with lip-stinging red chile salsa and sweet-spicy onions. The flavor built in intensity with each bite, but was never overwhelmingly spicy